After a delightful morning visit to Stellenberg in Cape Town, we arrive at one of the finest hotels in the city, indeed in all of South Africa. Not just luxe lodging, of course, for that wouldn’t be enough to bring us here on our garden tour, but a spectacular garden as well. I’ve visited a lot of hotels that have skillfully designed landscapes, but I can count on one hand the number that feature a garden that seems like a generous gesture by the owners that is well beyond the normal definition of “lovely grounds”. That defines the garden at The Cellars-Hohenort Hotel in Constantia Valley on the slopes of Table Mountain, and the generosity of spirit and creativity of the hotel’s late owner Liz McGrath.
We begin with a short talk at the top of the property by Hohenort’s garden manager, Neil McKrill, who will give us the grand tour today.
I can’t help but gaze longingly at a nearby rose tripod bearing the most luscious peach rose, and I laugh when I hear the name, ‘Crépuscule’, which has a faintly medicinal sound. But I understand completely after looking up the translation, for it means the colour of the sky at twilight or dusk. It’s a Noisette Tea climber, bred in 1904 by Francis Dubreuil – and best in warm climates.
Roses are used extensively here at Hohenort, including masses of white ‘Iceberg’ (which must be by far the most popular rose in South Africa), its blossoms echoing nicely the whitewashed Cape architecture.
And as at Stellenberg, white gardens form a theme here, too, like these white borders flanking a reflecting pool. That cascading cerise bougainvillea adds a nice contrast.
Calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), native to South Africa, is no less sumptuous for being common and is set off nicely by the frothy white campion (Lychnis coronaria ‘Alba’) and white columbines.
Nearby is a bed of bright pincushions (Leucospermum cordifolium) – still a novelty for us since we haven’t yet seen any serious collections of native plants (but that will come later!)
The formal rose garden is gorgeous, and seems to be at peak bloom.
We will see these clearwing butterflies (Acraea sp.) all over Cape Town gardens.
Neil explains that the vineyard has these red and white roses planted at the end of the rows of red and white wine grapes respectively. The idea is that a fungus like mildew will affect the rose leaves first, giving the vintner an early warning to treat the grape leaves for the same problems.
A lovely combination of Mexican fleabane (Erigeron karvinskianus) and Asian chain fern (Woodwardia orientalis) graces the base of a stone wall.
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And how pretty is this arch bedecked with lavender trumpet vine (Bignonia callistegioides).
We head down into Hohenort’s shady woodland, past the water garden with moisture-loving calla lilies and yellow flag iris (Iris pseudacorus).
As we walk the path, Neil points up to the amazing canopy of camphor trees (Cinnamomum camphora). They are between 220 and 240 years old – the second oldest camphors in South Africa. I think what a lovely, cool retreat this would be for hotel guests on hot summer days.
Passing through a little orchard, Neil asks whether we know this trick: crush a citrus leaf with your fingers, then smell it. You should be able to tell by the essesntial oils released whether it’s an orange or lemon. (This was definitely zesty lemon.)
Heading back to the hotel, we pass this unique water feature.
Our garden tour with Neil ends at the main building beside this lovely little formal parterre.
Our tour leader Donna Dawson has arranged an elegant lunch at Cellars-Hohenort. What a serene and inviting lobby sitting room.
Our lunch, appropriately, will be in The Greenhouse Restaurant with its cool, ferny decor.
Neil McKrill’s wife does the floral arrangements for the hotel. I like the modern feel of these ones.
And what could be more appealing after a long morning touring gardens than a glass of South African white wine and a bowl of chilled mint-pea soup to start? Time to relax and enjoy the setting, for we’re not quite finished our day of touring yet……
