Autumn at Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens – Part 1

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When my husband said his college golf mates had picked Maine for the annual get-together in 2023, I was pretty excited. I do enjoy seeing these seven couples each year and like them all, but there’s also always an opportunity to add on some garden visits. In Santa Barbara in 2014, it was Seaside Gardens in Carpinteria and Santa Barbara Botanical Garden, plus San Francisco Botanical Garden and UC Berkeley Botanical Garden. In 2016 when we met in Sun Valley, I visited both Sawtooth Botanical Garden in Ketchum and Idaho Botanical Garden in Boise. A 2017 visit to Sarasota, Florida meant I got to see wonderful Marie Selby Botanical Garden. In 2018 the site was Portland and Bend and we drove down from Vancouver, so I stopped at Seattle’s Bellevue Botanic Garden and the Soest Garden at the Urban Center for Horticulture at the University of Washington, as well as the Japanese Garden and the Lan Su Chinese Garden in Portland. This is us – the “golf widows” at the Japanese Garden.

In 2019, the golfers gathered in Marin County CA, so I got to Ruth Bancroft Garden in Walnut Creek and Filoli in Woodside. Following the Covid years, May 2022 saw us visiting Stone Harbor, NJ – and I managed stops at Garden in the Woods in Framingham MA and New England Botanical Garden in Boylston MA on the way there, and my favourite Chanticleer Garden in Wayne PA on the way home. Our wonderful October 2023 hosts live in Kennebunk, Maine, so I planned our driving trip from Toronto via Quebec so I could visit the Montreal Botanical Garden enroute. Then we drove south to Boston so I could finally realize a dream to spend lots of time at the Arnold Arboretum. After our golf visit wound up in Kennebunkport, we bade farewell to the group and drove up the coast for an overnight stay in Boothbay Harbor so I could finally see the Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens. Here’s the map showing the center of the garden; at 295 acres it stretches well out beyond the main features, below.

Even before we paid to enter, I was in love with the ethos of the garden as shown below in the long parking lot border featuring native roses in fruit, asters, mountain mint (Pycnanthemum muticum) and little bluestem (Schizachyrium scoparium)!

Islands featuring more formal designs with winter interest plants greet visitors in front of The Lyn And Daniel Lerner Visitor Center.

Look at this! Can you say “chartreuse love”? I see Salvia mexicana, a chartreuse taro, purple angelonia, lime-green nicotiana and dwarf papyrus.

The Heafitz Wetland Bridge near the entrance takes visitors over a piece of natural Maine forest with vernal pools and marshy ground.

Interpretive signage teaches visitors that the habitat below supports native species like the spotted salamander.

Earlier in the week, I had seen a yellow bird in the marshy growth at the Rachel Carson National Wildlife Refuge in Kennebunk, so I was delighted to learn its name – common yellowthroat – here.

Though the Butterfly Garden greenhouse was closed for the year, the flowerbeds outside still had lots of bloom.

With no early frost, the Dahlia Garden was still looking fabulous.

This is Dahlia ‘Hollyhill Black Beauty’.

Children were running through the Willow Tunnel, the first of many features that illustrate the attention CMBG designers paid to creating family-friendly gardens and niches, a strategy that attracts younger demographics and family memberships.

Ecological education is a primary objective here as well.

Water features like this beautiful pond with its mirrored edge play a big role in the garden, including….

….educating visitors about native aquatic species like the Eastern pondhawk dragonfly.

Panicle hydrangeas (H. paniculata) have a long season of interest, including turning colour in autumn, as these shrubs are doing in the pond border

I was impressed with the diversity of plants in mid-October, like Vernonia lettermannii ‘Iron Lady’. Like all ironweeds, it’s very attractive to butterflies such as the painted lady, below.

Winterberry (Ilex verticillata) is showy in autumn, with fruit that persists into winter until it finally becomes a meal for birds.

Across the large pond stood one of the garden’s five popular trolls or “Guardians of the Seeds”, created by Danish scultor/recycler Thomas Dambo. This one is named RØSKVA, which means “trunks”. As the garden notes: “she is the heaviest, hardest, and strongest of the trolls. Every day, Røskva climbs towards the sky, and every year she grows taller and wider. If a troll forgets something, they can always ask Røskva—she counts the seasons and remembers everything that happens around her.” The other trolls Lilja, Berk, Søren and Gro are in the forest surrounding the main gardens, and each has a role to play.

I loved this little girl engaging with Røskva (and giving an idea of scale).

Little touches, like these bumble bee topiaries incorporating diverse sedum species, add interest to a visitor’s journey through the garden.

Since we had driven up from Kennebunkport that morning, we were more than ready for lunch and found a table on the Great Lawn.

Then it was off to the Lerner Garden of the Five Senses.

Tasting, touching, smelling, looking and listening… everything a good garden needs to engage the senses.

I was enchanted by these vertical planters showing the possibilities for sun and shade in a restricted space! The silvery, sunny side, below, features Dichrondra ‘Silver Falls’, Helichrysum ‘Icicles’, Artemisia ‘Sea Salt’ and Lavandula ‘Elegance Purple’ (the lavender out of bloom in October.).

The shady side is no less beautiful. It features Australian sword fern (Nephrolepis exaltata) and its cultivar ‘Cotton Candy’, the Rex begonias ‘Escargot’, ‘Iron Cross’ and ‘Fireworks’, the Bolivian begonias ‘Angel Falls Soft Pink’ and the trailing begonia ‘Fragrant Falls’.

There were other possibilities for raised gardening, including these cool, galvanized planters with windowbox-style inserts.

Of course, with good planning and construction there’s no need to bend over to grow vegetables, and the Lerner Garden shows the productive possibilities of raised beds.

The sound of splashing water permeates the Lerner Garden, courtesy of the fountain in its handsome upper pond, whose water flows over the edge and recirculates to a lower pond.

Here, there’s a fascinating sculpture reflected perfectly in the water. It also vibrates in a breeze, creating its own unique music.

George Sherwood’s kinetic ‘Flock of Birds’ sculpture was gleaming in the October sunshine.

Rocks — smooth river rock, cobbles and cut boulders — are used extensively in the gardens. These ones offer a variety of sensory textures.

We left the Lerner Garden via a cool, shady planting under trees.

But there was still much to see at Coastal Maine Botanical Gardens. Stay tuned for Part Two including the Arbor Garden, the Haney Hillside Garden, the Vayo Meditation Garden and the amazing Bibby and Harold Alfond Children’s Garden!

The Newt

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Before I get to Somerset, a memory. On a trip to South Africa almost a decade ago, I enjoyed all the gardens our tour guide Donna Dawson had organized, but my very favourite was Babylonstoren in the Franschhoek wine district outside Cape Town. “Bedazzled by Babylonstoren” is the blog I wrote on my autumn 2014 visit. It combined all the best features of a truly great garden: a stunning design by Italian-French architect Patrice Taravella; diverse and beautiful ornamental and edible plantings, all organic; a vineyard that stretched for miles; a gift shop and charming farm-to-table restaurant; and an elegant spa hotel whose cottages nestled along the edge of the gardens. All that in a picturesque setting overlooked by the craggy peaks of Simonsberg.

So when Babylonstoren’s owners, telecom billionaire Koos Bekker and his wife Karen Roos, the former editor of Elle Decoration South Africa, came to England looking for a farm in the country, it made perfect sense that they would choose an historic 17th century estate in leafy Somerset. That rumor has it they had to outbid actor Johnny Depp to make their successful £12 million purchase only added to the cachet.  Then they spent 6 years developing the property, working again with Patrice Taravella to create a second unique, complex organic garden and farm while transforming the house into an exclusve hotel & spa. The map below is available as a detailed pdf online.

Somehow, as we drew into The Newt’s parking lot on my June 2023 visit with Carex Tours, I knew most of the details about our upcoming visit and fondly remembered visiting Babylonstoren, but I hadn’t yet learned the actual name of the historic house that became the hotel. When our guide said “Hadspen” my heart leapt, for this had been the home of the renowned garden writer, designer and colourist, Penelope Hobhouse, who later leased it to the Canadian gardeners Nori and Sandra Pope, who went on to create what became an iconic walled garden focused on colour. Noel Kingsbury wrote an affectionate essay on the Popes, the Hobhouse estate and the drama associated with its direction.  As many of my readers likely know, I’ve long had an interest in colour in the garden, focusing on it in my blog and in my photography.  But 25 years ago, I also wrote a book review, below, for my column in Toronto Life Gardens on Nori and Sandra Pope’s book ‘Color by Design, so I was very familiar with the colour ethos of Hadspen House.  Would I find it today? Stay tuned.

We entered The Newt via a gatehouse and a long, sinuous boardwalk through rich woodland.

Stacks of cut wood were placed along the pathway like mossy, natural works of art that double as habitat.

I walked through the entrance courtyard past the threshing barn, cyder bar and gift shop and made my way quickly to the Cottage Garden below. Beyond that was the Fragrance Garden  and Cascades. (Though hotel guests have access to the gardens, Hadspen House itself is off-limits to garden visitors – I tried.)

There were familiar pairings of lavender and lambs’ ears…

…. and Jerusalem sage (Phlomis russelliana) with pale yellow-eyed grass (Sisyrinchium striatum)…

… and in the Cascades, moisture-loving Rodgersia pinnata ‘Superba’ with primulas and royal ferns.

The Cascades features a waterfall emptying into a rectilinear pool planted with waterlilies.

Next, I came to my favourite part of The Newt, the Colour Garden.  It is actually a series of wattle-walled, colour-themed gardens bisected by a stone path, and you can view what’s ahead through oval windows in the wall of each garden. 

Alongside, there was a touching dedication to Sandra and the late Nori Pope.

It pleased me that the new owners understood how well-loved the Popes had been, and how many people missed their creativity, including Vancouver landscape architect Ron Rule, who captured Sandra in the garden long ago.

Photo courtesy of Ron Rule Consultants Ltd., West Vancouver, B.C.

The Newt’s version of the Colour Garden begins with a Green Garden with lots of ornamental grasses and green-flowered plants like tall Angelica archangelica…

….. and euphorbias, too.

Then comes the spectacular little Red Garden….

…. with dancing corn poppies (Papaver rhoeas) and swishing Mexican feather grass (Nassella tenuissima).  I noticed angelica in that garden as well – such a great plant for pollinators.

In early June, the Red Garden stretched the colour palette into hot pinks and magenta with Carthusian pink (Dianthus carthusianorum) and masterwort (Astrantia major). 

A bumble bee was foraging on the geum.

It was a terribly sunny day (how could that happen for so many days in a row in England?) so my photos of The Blue Garden in particular were difficult.

Amsonia and cornflowers took centre stage. but there were campanulas and delphiniums sprinkled in as well.

Navy-blue honeywort (Cerinthe major ‘Purpurascens’) was a feature in many of the gardens I visited in England.

The White Garden is the final colour garden….

…. and the predominant plants in bloom in early June were the Hybrid Musk rose ‘Kew Gardens’ (which I had photographed earlier that week at RBG Kew in London) and the white form of red valerian or Jupiter’s beard, Centranthus ruber ‘Albus’.  

On leaving the Colour Garden, I took a stroll down the Long Walk which moves down a gentle slope flanked by a stone wall overhung with white Jupiter’s beard (Centranthus ruber ‘Albus’). In the background is the hotel.

The Long Walk has its own water features like this pool at the top….

…. and a square waterlily pool fed by a rill, beyond which is another pool. In the distance are two screened houses in the produce garden.

Then it was into the Parabola Garden. In the language of mathematics, a parabola is a U- or D-shaped curve that features a vertex and symmetrical axis – like a rainbow, for instance. The Newt’s version occupies a walled garden that was originally designed as a kitchen garden by Henry Hobhouse II. Two centuries later, it was framed by Sandra and Nori Pope’s iconic colour border, below.

Photo courtesy of Ron Rule Consultants Ltd., West Vancouver, B.C.

Today, the Parabola Garden is designed as a maze and home to a collection of 267 cultivars of apple trees representing each apple-growing county of England. They grow in cordons, fan-espaliers and various other space-conserving methods. (The Cyder Bar near the garden’s entrance also pays homage to apples and features tastings.)   That stone wall at the top of the photo below surrounds the garden and….

…. features the names of the apple-growing counties. Each year in the 3rd week of October, the Newt hosts a celebration called Apple Day featuring juice pressing, apple games and recipes.  

Although England is famous for its hen parties, the Parabola Garden features the real thing. This pair obviously wandered up from the henhouse below.

Yet another water feature forms a central focal point in The Parabola.

Then it was under the Caterpillar Tunnel weaving through meadows towards the Produce Garden.

The base of the tunnel is planted with tromboncino, bottleneck and other varieties of squash which create a leafy canopy by late summer.   

I loved the shadow play along the path.

Chives, herbs and vegetable seedlings were newly planted in mulched beds separated by pretty wattle screens.  More than 350 varieties of edibles are planted here.

 Coldframes held plants too tender to be planted out just yet.

And an oak-timbered fruit cage, one of a pair, protected berry bushes from hungry birds and critters.

 I heard there were living newts in the produce garden’s raised, naturalistic pond, but I looked in vain. However, I did spy a handsome, green-eyed emperor dragonfly (Anax imperator).

Sadly, it was time to make my way back to the bus via a quick stop for a delicious al fresco lunch.  Afterwards, I had just a few minutes to take a walk through the Winter Garden, kept at 20-25C all year long and filled with ferns, orchids, succulents, tropical fruits and tender beauties from far away…..

….. like the South American firecracker plant (Dicliptera suberecta).

And how did The Newt compare to Babylonstoren?  I think they were as different from each other as Somerset apples are to Franschhoek wine grapes, yet they share the same elegant rusticity and exquisite attention to detail.  And though The Newt pays homage to its English garden roots, to the Hobhouse and Pope eras, it is very much its own lovely creature, still young and growing, but looking to the future, not the past.

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The Newt is open to visitors by annual membership only and includes many benefits, including free garden tours, special events and an impressive list of seasonal workshops. It also includes entrance to partner gardens including Kew, Wakehurst, Blenheim, Great Dixter, Lost Gardens of Heligan, Tresco, Chatworth and others. Clearly, amidst all the comings-and-goings of a working farm and an award-winning boutique hotel, it is aiming for a level of exclusivity and community.

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Here are my blogs on a few of the other English gardens I visited in 2023:

Sissinghurst in Vita’s Sweet June

Boldly Go: June Glory at Great Dixter

Oudolf Field at Hauser & Wirth

Hillside: Dan Pearson & Huw Morgan in Somerset

Charles Cresson’s Hedgleigh Spring

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The beautiful thing about plant-rich garden tours is that you get to see inspiring gardens filled with botanical treasures nurtured by acclaimed gardeners. The sad thing about plant-rich garden tours is that there’s never enough time to spend inspecting all the rare plants and clever combinations and talking to those renowned gardeners. That’s how I felt in September as I rushed around Charles Cresson’s garden Hedgleigh Spring in Swarthmore, PA.  Much has been written about the garden, including that Charles is the 4th generation of the family to live and garden here, and that his grandfather built the house.  

When my Pennsylvania garden friend Harriet Cramer discovered I was doing a tour of the Philadelphia area, she wrote: “As an accomplished plantswoman, one garden you should not miss is that of Charles Cresson in Swarthmore. I don’t know if you know Charles, but he has an extraordinary property, it’s been in his family for several generations, and Charles has literally been working on this garden his entire life. He is very gracious about showing people around. You do need to leave quite a bit of time because it is huge and full of extraordinary and unusual plants. Visiting is a humbling experience, it always makes me realize how little I actually know about plants.”  Indeed, all I managed with Charles, a frequent teacher, author, founder of the Swarthmore Horticultural Society (SWS) and even a subject of the UK’s Monty Don television series, was a quick hello before going back to soak in as much as I could of his special 2-acre garden.

Hedgleigh’s name originated in 1883 with the purchase of a 20-acre farm by Charles’s great-grandfather, Ezra Townsend Cresson. Ezra had been one of the three founders of the Entomological Society of Pennsylvania in 1859, becoming curator of the society in 1866 and involved in collections, publications (including his most famous “Synopsis of the Families and Genera of the Hymenoptera of America north of Mexico” in 1887) and administration until 1924, just two years before his death.  The house was built in 1921 by Ezra’s son William and the “hedg” in the garden’s name originated with a border of Osage orange trees (Maclura pomifera) – whose fruits are called “hedge apples” – that originally surrounded the property.  Today, Charles makes his garden available regularly for tours and hosts events for the SWS.

The densely-planted house border glowed with late-season perennials mixed with cannas and other tropicals. Charles grows more than 2,000 plants, including 40 types of camellia.

Blue anise-scented sage (Salvia guaranitica) and orange cuphea made a pretty combination. Hummingbirds would adore this border. And speaking of anise-scented sage, I learned while researching this blog that Charles Cresson introduced S. guaranitica ‘Argentina Skies’, a beautiful sky-blue cultivar of my favourite sage.

Bright-yellow sternbergias (S. lutea) were lighting up a shady area….

…. as were white cyclamen.

Elsewhere, the mauve flowers of Colchicum ‘Beaconsfield’ added late-season color. It’s no surprise that Charles has given workshops at Longwood Gardens on summer bulbs.

A teak bench on a red-brick patio was surrounded by pots of tropical and tender plants, including lantana, heliconia, phormium, agave, cordyline and many more. As at Andrew Bunting’s garden in my last blog, the pots spend winter indoors.

A curved white picket fence, built by Charles’s grandfather in 1954, backs a long flower border that moves from cool color schemes to hot. This is the hot-colored end with orange heleniums, red salvias and lantana, yellow dahlias and dark heuchera.  I think the tall yellow-flowered plant is Helianthus ‘Lemon Queen’.

Bumble bees were enjoying nectaring on the late-season helianthus flowers.

A flagstone-paved section in front of the fence displays a collection of tender plants in pots.

On the cooler end of the border, a peach sage (Salvia splendens) paired nicely with a lavender aster.

Wandering in a different part of the garden, I found the beautiful flowers and green fruit of native maypop vine (Passiflora incarnata), reportedly similar in taste to guava.

Trees in the garden were reflected in a pond…

…. and in the damp soil at its edge was a carnivrous pitcher plant (Sarracenia leucophylla).

Pots surrounded a bench in a shady niche where rhododendrons and other spring beauties thrive.

We were being called to the bus when I saw the vegetable garden, so I only had time to snap a quick shot, but tomatoes were still ripening, the biggest protected from hungry critters.

I was impressed with the moss on this structure – which I think might be the original 19th century pump house.

And what garden blogger doesn’t enjoy a brief opportunity to find their inner child?   

Thank you Charles, for opening your beautiful garden – even if it was much too short a visit.

A Visit to Andrew Bunting’s Belvidere

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During my September Garden Bloggers’ Fling in the Philadelphia area, my favourite small garden was Andrew Bunting’s delightful property in Swarthmore. Perhaps that’s no surprise, given that the owner is the Vice-President of Horticulture with the Pennsylvania Horticultural Society. Founded in 1827, the PHS is the oldest horticultural society in the U.S., responsible for the annual Philadelphia Flower Show as well as a host of endeavors including 120 community gardens; maintenance of public landscapes in the city and suburbs including museums, the art gallery and public squares; street tree programs; the 28-acre estate garden at Meadowbrook Farm; Landcare, in which vacant city lots are turned from blighted properties to neighbourhood parks; pop-up ephemeral gardens; and a program to train former convicts to be gardeners.

Since buying the house on its one-third acre in 1999, this garden is where Andrew has experimented with an eclectic roster of plants and an evolving approach to design – in fact, five redesigns in his time there. I especially loved seeing his home through the tall, wispy wands of ‘Skyracer’ purple moor grass (Molinia caerulea subsp. arundinacea), a grass that shines in my own garden in autumn. Beyond is a gravel garden bisected by a broad flagstone walk with a small patch of lawn that creates a nice balance of negative space, as well as lavenders and verbascums and other drought-tolerant plants, many native. A stone trough acts as a birdbath and a terracotta urn features a chartreuse explosion of colocasia (likely ‘Maui Gold’).

Arkansas bluestar (Amsonia hubrichtii) with its needle-like leaves is prominent in the front garden; its blue flowers are attractive in spring but its brilliant gold fall color gives it long-season appeal. Barely visible in the foliage is a wooden chair.  Originally white, the front door and window shutters were painted gray, picking up the colors of the flagstone.

Behind the amsonia is Hydrangea paniculata ‘Limelight’ and, at left, willow-leaf spicebush (Lindera glauca var. salicifolia), which also has good autumn colour.

The vine around the door and on the house’s front wall is self-clinging Chinese silver-vein creeper (Parthenocissus henryana).  I love the mailbox and house numbers.

My colour-tuned eye picked up the echo between the red glasses indoors and the big caladium and chartreuse-and-red coleus in Andrew’s windowbox.

Our time was limited and there was so much to see, but I could have spent hours studying the gravel garden, including many native plants like giant coneflower (Rudbeckia maxima), below. Andrew’s influences around gravel include Beth Chatto’s garden in England, the Gravel Garden designed by Lisa Roper at Chanticleer (see my latest blog here) and Jeff Epping’s work at Olbrich Gardens in Madison, Wisconsin. The gravel is 1/2 inch granite but Andrew says it’s more like 1/4 inch.

Here is native wild quinine (Parthenium integrifolium).

And American beautyberry (Callicarpa americana) with its vibrant violet fruit.

Andrew removed much of the original driveway beside the house which was too narrow for cars and turned it into a shady sideyard garden with a path leading to the old garage – which became a charming summerhouse. Those little purple flowers are Vernonia lettermannii ‘Iron Butterfly’, a good fall bloomer and, incidentally, a Pennsylvania Horticultural Society 2023 Gold Medal Plant Winner!

Turning the corner at the back of the house, I saw more evidence of a plantsman’s wonderland with assorted tropicals in pots and a potting bench topped by colourful annuals.

Andrew was holding court in the back garden, so I asked him to pose. His own history in horticulture is very deep. Even at a young age, he knew a career in gardening was in his future – and it relates to the name of his own garden. As he has written in an essay about becoming a gardener, “My grandfather farmed in southeastern Nebraska, just outside a little town called Belvidere. I loved those couple of weeks on the farm every summer. Something about that agrarian lifestyle resonated with me then, and still does today. I loved the crops in the field, my grandmother’s vegetable garden, and the smell of hay.” He did internships at the Morton Arboretum, Fairchild Tropical Garden and the Scott Arboretum, where he worked in the late 1980s for three years.  In 1990 he visited more than a hundred gardens in England, meeting Rosemary Verey, Beth Chatto, Christopher Lloyd and working for a while at Penelope Hobhouse’s  Tintinhull. That autumn, he travelled to New Zealand and worked for a designer for 3 months. Returning to Pennsylvania, he got a part-time position at Chanticleer as it was becoming a public garden, working there for 18 months while starting his own landscape business on the side. In 1993, he became curator of the Scott arboretum at Swarthmore College and stayed there for 22 years, until becoming Assistant Director and Director of Plant Collections at Chicago Botanic Garden in 2015.  

I saw Andrew during a garden symposium in Chicago in 2018, below, when he spoke about how he directed the content and curation of CBG’s permanent plant collection. Next, a job offer at the Atlanta Botanic Garden arose and he became Vice-President of Horticulture and Plant Collections at Atlanta Botanic Garden, giving him the chance to grow broad-leaved plants. Then the opportunity at Pennsylvania Horticultural Society opened up and he returned to Swarthmore and the abundance of public gardens that make the Philadelphia area “America’s Garden Capital”.  

When Andrew bought the house in 1999 the back yard was filled with a jungle of pokeweed. With the help of his landscape crew and a bobcat, he installed a 35 x 12 foot patio spanning the back of the house.  It’s the perfect setting for a lush ‘garden room’ created with pots of banana, canna and palms.  These tropicals get carried down to the cool, damp, cellar-like basement for winter through the entrance partially shown at left.

There are potted plants everywhere, many on vintage tables…..

…. and étageres.

Textural foliage combinations caught my eye, like this chartreuse sweet potato vine (Ipomoea batatas) with Euphorbia x martinii ‘Ascot Rainbow’ euphorbia and a fancy-leaved pelargonium.

There are bromeliads here too, like Portea petropolitana.

Most chairs in the garden were built by Chanticleer’s Dan Benarcik – and can actually be ordered custom online as kits or fully assembled! Note that the granite gravel has been used here, which Andrew says is a less expensive solution than flagstone paving. At right, you can see the entrance to the covered part of the summerhouse, aka the old garage.

So many artful touches here, combining with the rich plant palette to create a beautiful outdoor living space.

Let’s take a peek into the summerhouse, where a comfy leather sofa awaits.  As Andrew once said in an online Masterclass chat with Noel Kingsbury and Annie Guilfoyle, many people in the Philadelphia area go to the New Jersey shore or the Poconos in summer, but he prefers his own garden – “less traffic and more access to gardening”.  And I can imagine sitting in here behind the screen doors during a summer thunderstorm, candles lit, perhaps with a little glass of something tasty.

The back of the summerhouse is more open to the elements and features the perfect stage set. I don’t know what the silvery Adonis mannequin was once wearing on his sculpted torso, but I’m willing to bet it was Ralph Lauren, now nicely accented with tillandsias and begonias.

Nearby are more colocasias and blue Salvia guaranitica.

I loved all the seating (still more Dan Benarcik chairs), this time on a shady patio with a dining table.

Sometimes the seating is more about atmosphere and lichen-rich patina than it is about an actual place to sit.

In a shady spot at the back of the garden is a naturalistic pond because… every garden needs a little water.

I was sad not to have time to take a peek behind the back fence into the neighbour’s yard, where there’s an Andrew-designed large, shared quadrangle vegetable garden, but it was late in the season for veggies anyway.  Mostly, I was happy that we were able to see this lovely garden in dry weather, since we were soon to find ourselves on the soaking end of Tropical Storm Ophelia.

Oudolf Field at Hauser & Wirth

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Having visited and often written about Dutch designer Piet Oudolf’s garden on the High Line in many seasons – May, June, mid-summer and autumn; having blogged about his fabulous Lurie Garden in Chicago; but mostly having photographed and written about the seasons passing in the Oudolf-designed entry border at Toronto Botanical Garden, a few miles from my home, I was beyond excited to finally visit Oudolf Field at Hauser & Wirth Gallery at Dunslade Farm in Somerset, near Bruton.  First we walked through the gallery, one of 21 galleries worldwide founded originally in Zurich in 1992 by Iwan and Manuela Wirth along with Manuela’s mother, art patron and collector Ursula Hauser. The Somerset gallery resulted from the renovation of a collection of old farm buildings and is located near the Wirths’ home.  Like all their galleries, it features high-profile modern artists such as Americans Richard Jackson, below…

… and Paul McCarthy, whose silicone White Snow Dwarves, below, from the Ursula Hauser collection was displayed near the exit to the garden.

Leaving the gallery which was designed by Argentine-born architect Luis Laplace, visitors pass through a cloister garden designed by Piet Oudolf and featuring the sculpture Lemur Heads by Franz West.  Unlike the meadow beyond, this space contains woodlanders and shade-tolerant species.  

The small trees in this garden are paper mulberry (Broussonetia papyrifera) with their fuzzy, globular female flowers.

Martagon lilies were just beginning to show colour.

We began with a talk from head gardener Mark Dumbelton, who spoke about the beginnings of the garden and expanded on some of its challenges, mainly around the soil. Indeed, when we visited England was on its way to enduring the hottest June on record since 1884, according to the Royal Meteorological Society, and watering was being done by hand.  Behind Mark, I noticed the white inflorescences of….

Ornithogalum ponticum ‘Sochi’, a Russian native bulb that contrasts well with emerging grasses and makes a good cut flower.

Near the gallery is a naturalistic pond surrounded by pink flowering rush (Butomnus umbellatus).

You can see the pond at the left, below, on Piet’s colourful 2012 plan for the wildflower meadow in the Hauser & Wirth catalogue.  Spread out over 1.5 acres are seventeen curved, informal planting beds separated by a central gravel path as well as lawn paths between the beds and surrounded by an existing hedge, beyond which Piet planted trees.

He explained his rationale for Oudolf Field in the video below.  

With Mark’s talk finished, we were set loose in the meadow. I viewed it through spires of peach foxtail lily (Eremurus), a lovely perennial for early summer whose….  

….. tall inflorescences never fail to attract the attention of visitors – and bees! This one looks like the Dutch cultivar Eremurus x isabellinus ‘Romance’.  

I was intrigued by the ten turf circles in the central path through the meadow.  The path lets visitors stroll from one end to the other, but the playful circles relieve the tedium of this long expanse of purposeful gravel.  

They are so unlike Piet’s characteristic naturalistic style, but in fact they point to his pragmatic design knowledge and site adaptability. (Yes, he designs woodlands and knows shrubs and trees as well as his favourite perennials!) 

I was reminded in studying these circles of my own visit to Piet and Anja’s garden in Hummelo, Netherlands in 1999 which was designed in part to reflect one of his early Dutch influences, the great designer Mien Ruys (1904-99), the so-called “mother of modernist gardens”.  Both his famous hedges and circle gardens, below, were his interpretation of what has been called “contemporary formalism” by his frequent literary collaborator Noel Kingsbury.

I feel very fortunate to have spoken with Piet then, at the beginning of his international fame. I made a photo of him at their outdoor table with spring-flowering shrubs in flower around us. Anja was in their nursery (gone now) with customers, and their little dog sat in a chair nearby.

Back to Oudolf Field, the overwhelming mood here on June 9th was of soft pastel mauves and blues amidst the emerging green of the grasses and summer perennials. Eastern beebalm (Monarda bradburiana) native to the American southeast was in full flower in front of the blue blossoms of narrowleaf bluestar (Amsonia hubrichtii), a south-central American native that turns brilliant chartreuse-gold in autumn.   Emerging through the grasses were the big starry globes of star-of-Persia allium (A.cristophii).  

I had never seen Monarda bradburiana before spotting it in Piet’s design at the High Line years ago.  Like many of the plants he uses – and sometimes introduces to commerce – it has withstood his field testing at Hummelo. This compact species has the good characteristics of the beebalms, including pollinator appeal, without the negative drawbacks, such as powdery mildew.

I saw tall Carthusian pinks(Dianthus carthusianorum) in almost every garden I visited in June, including Sissinghurst and Hillside, the garden of Dan Pearson and Huw Morgan. 

Early June, following the explosion of spring bulbs and before the summer abundance of flowering perennials is sometimes considered an “in-between” time in the garden. That quiet interlude is helped immensely by the many ornamental onions, and Piet uses them to great advantage in all his gardens, both for their flowers and later seedheads.  Below, again, you see Allium cristophii along with the Corten steel edging used to delineate the beds.

After seeing Allium atropurpureum, below, amidst grasses, I came back to Canada and immediately ordered some for my own June garden.

Here is Allium atropurpureum with Amsonia hubrichtii.

… and with Oenothera lindheimeri, i.e. gaura.

Looking back to the gallery through the gardens, including dark-leaved penstemons.

Piet uses various low grasses as matrix plants, including Sporobolus heterolepis, below, and Sesleria autumnalis.

The weather was so warm the day we were there in this record-setting dry June, the assistant gardener was working full-time to water.

While the garden is situated within pre-existing hedges, Piet planted trees on the boundary to contain it further.

The Pavilion, designed by Chilean architect Smiljan Radić and installed in March 2015, sits at the end of Oudolf Field and is intended to “create a dialogue between the gallery complex and pavilion and their relationship with the garden”. Radić says it is “part of a history of small romantic constructions seen in parks or large gardens, the so-called follies.”  Built of white, translucent fibreglass with cedar flooring and set atop large quarry stones, visitors can view the garden from within the shell.     

Heading into the gallery for lunch, I passed the attractive bar — a work of art in itself.

It was a lunch I would have enjoyed much more if I hadn’t been feeling the beginnings of what turned out to be my first case of Covid in more than 3 years– and the unexpected and sudden end later that night of my wonderful English garden tour. But I was so delighted to have experienced yet another masterpiece in the always-varied oeuvre of Piet Oudolf.