A Shade Garden Master Class

Seldom do I find a large garden where the brilliance and beauty of the plant combinations remain top-notch down every path and into each tiny nook and cranny. And I can count on one hand – one finger, actually – the number of times that exquisite sensation happens in a garden devoted entirely to shade. That singular honour goes to the Shade Garden (Jardin d’Ombre) at the Montreal Botanical Garden (MBG).

Shade Garden sign-Montreal Botanical Garden

I try to visit MBG, known in Montreal as the Jardin Botanique, once a season, usually over a two-day period in order the cover the 30 outdoor theme gardens and 10 greenhouses arrayed around the institution’s 190 acres (75 hectares).  On a spring visit after a Quebec winter that lasts a full six months, nature’s flowery abundance seems nothing short of a miracle. In the third week of May, the late tulips are hanging on; the alpine gardens are full of little treasures; the exquisite collections of lilacs, crabapples and yellow magnolias (about which I blogged last year) shower blossoms everywhere.  But for me, the star of the May ball is the Shade Garden. And before the summer rush of tourists, you are very likely (especially if you visit on a weekday) to have a bench all to yourself from which to sit and study the intricacy of nearby plantings.

Bench-Shade Garden-Montreal Botanical Garden

Measuring 12,950 m² and comprised of approximately 2800 species and cultivars of plants, the Shade Garden once stretched like a “Gothic cathedral” under an avenue of American elm trees. Sadly, except for a few survivors, almost all these magnificent natives succumbed to Dutch Elm disease.  In the 1980s, the trees were replaced with a canopy of maples, lindens and ash trees.

Shade Garden path-Montreal Botanical Garden

It is almost too much to bear that the same fate that befell the elms is likely in store for the ash trees, which are under attack by the Emerald ash borer.  So in time, another species will likely have to replace the ashes so the light remains dappled to encourage all the woodland beauties, like the ostrich ferns (Matteucia struthiopteris) and  hostas, below, with ligularia just emerging in the lower right.

Ostrich ferns & hostas

Late daffodils and azaleas and rhododendrons light up the shadows, along with the pretty front-of-border perennial spring vetchling (Lathyrus vernus).

Azaleas & Daffodils & Lathyrus verna-Montreal Botanical Garden

Lathyrus vernus comes in a few vibrant pinkish hues.

Lathyrus vernus

Plants from Europe and Asia are combined with native North American wildflowers, like this beautiful blue combination of Siberian bugloss (Brunnera macrophylla) and Virginia bluebell (Mertensia virginica).

Brunnera macrophylla & Mertensia virginica

This is a cheery duo:  North American wood poppy (Stylophorum diphyllum) with the woodland tulip (Tulipa sylvestris).

Stylophorum diphyllum & Tulipa sylvestris-Montreal Botanical Garden

And this combination of Hosta montana ‘Aureo-Marginata’ with wild blue phlox (Phlox divaricata), below….

Hosta montana 'Aureo-Marginata' & Phlox divaricata

…. is one of the starring duets in this beautifully-planted section near a foot-bridge.

Bridge-Shade Garden-Montreal Botanical Garden

Wild blue phlox does seem very at home here, along with the other North American natives such as Solomon’s seal (Polygonum sp) left and little reddish violets, right.

Phlox divaricata- Violets-Hostas

I love this combination of Japanese royal fern (Osmunda regalis) and Himalayan mayapple (Sinopodophyllum hexandrum).

Osmunda japonica & Sinopodophyllum hexandrum

Look at these wonderful fiddleheads of the Japanese royal fern….

Osmunda japonica

…..and these spectacular flowers of the Himalayan mayapple.

Sinopodophyllum hexandrum

There are trilliums galore, including a beautiful stand of the gruesomely-named bloody butcher (Trillium recurvatum).  I think I prefer its other common name, prairie trillium, due to its presence in the American tallgrass prairie savannah, as well as in other parts of eastern-to-central U.S.

Trillium recurvatum

The white form of the more common red wake robin (T. erectum) shimmers in the garden…..

Trillium erectum var. album

…while common violets (V. sororia) create a lovely framework for  yellow trillium (T. luteum)…….

Trillium luteum & Viola sororia-Montreal Botanical Garden

….and showy trilliums (T. grandiflorum) look particularly pretty as their petals age to rosy-pink, thus making a nice pairing with the ‘Raspberry Splash’ lungwort (Pulmonaria hybrid).
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Trillium grandiflorum & Pulmonaria 'Raspberry Splash'

There are plants grown for their spectacularly-coloured foliage, like Podophyllum ‘Spotty Dotty’, below,

Podophyllum 'Spotty Dotty'

….and the bronze form of Rodgersia podophylla just emerging.

Rodgersia emerging

There are plants I’ve never heard of before, such as Chinese umbrella leaf (Diephyllia sinensis) with its tiny white flowers….

Diphylleia sinensis-Chinese umbrella leaf

…and Japanese wood mint (Meehania urticifolia), below. How sweet are these lilac blossoms?

Meehania urticifolia

Noble birthwort (Corydalis nobilis) from China joins the wonderful pantheon of corydalis species so useful in part shade.  Here it is on the left with wood poppy (Stylophorum diphyllum) and blue lungwort (Pulmonaria cv – perhaps ‘Blue Ensign’?) and in closeup on the right.

Corydalis nobilis-Noble birthwort

And I’ve not come across balm-leaved red deadnettle (Lamium orvala) or yellow fairy bells (Disporum uniflorum) before either.  Have I been living under a rock?

Lamium orvala & Disporum uniflorum

The combination below is so startling and shimmery, I literally blink my eyes. Who would think of combining ‘Goldheart’ bleeding heart (Lamprocapnos spectabilis) with the ferny foliage of Asparagus tenuifolius? In fact, who has even heard of this Mediterranean asparagus, which is described as not tolerating shade, but seems to be doing very well indeed in part shade?  (I presume the gardeners grow it on in glasshouses through winter and plant it amongst the bleeding hearts in early spring).

Dicentra 'Goldheart' & Asparagus tenuifolius

Speaking of gold, the garden also utilizes luminous gold-leafed shrubs like Cornus alternifolia ‘Gold Bullion’, below, to light up the shadows.

Cornus alternifolia 'Gold Bullion'

There are beautiful Japanese maples chosen for the way the sun backlights their leaves, such as the fullmoon maple Acer shirasawanum ‘Autumn Moon’.

Acer shirasawanum 'Autumn Moon'

White flowers are used to add contrast to all the greens, like these ‘Triandrus’ daffodils with the Solomon’s seals (Polygonatum biflorum). Underneath are Confederate violets (Viola sororia f. priceana).

Solomon's seal & Narcisus 'Triandrus'

Also with white flowers, pinnate coralroot (Cardamine heptaphylla) is a less familiar member of the cuckoo flowers.

Cardamine heptaphylla

There are some old-fashioned, familiar plants such as ‘Mrs. Moon’ lungwort (Pulmonaria saccharata) on the left, and Jacob’s ladder (Polemonium caeruleum) on the right.

Pulmonaria saccharata 'Mrs. Moon' & Polemonium caeruleum

Some garden thugs, below, like purple deadnettle (Lamium maculatum) and lily-of-the-valley (Convallaria majalis), seem suspiciously well-behaved here in the garden where they’re paired fetchingly with Solomon’s seals (Polygonatum biflorum).

Lamium-Polygonatum-Convallaria

When I have trouble identifying a plant, I seek out gardener Sylvain Villeneuve, who, despite my terrible high school French and comical hand gestures, valiantly attempts to answer my questions.

Sylvain Villeneuve-Jardin Botanique de Montreal

Sylvain assures me that they do have trouble with certain invasive plants, particularly the lesser celandine (Ranunculus ficaria) which forms a rampant (but beguilingly-green) groundcover in large areas here. It has muscled out some very fine primroses, he says.

Ranunculus ficaria

Finally, it is time to head out into the sunny expanses of Montreal Botanical Garden to see some of the other collections.  But I cannot help but be charmed as I Ieave by this small, perfect tapestry of pale-yellow Anemone x lipsiensis with rivers of Japanese hakone grass (Hakonechloa macra ‘Aureola), ferns and violets. To me, this little vignette is the best advertising possible for that beau jardin ombragé we all dream about – a beautiful, cool garden in the shade.

Shade Tapestry-Montreal Botanical Garden

 

Bedazzled by Babylonstoren

If I have one small regret on our South Africa garden tour, it is that some experiences are so heady and wonderful I would love them to go on for hours…even days. Alas, there’s always a schedule to keep and another place to be. Nonetheless, I feel that longing acutely in the afternoon of Day 11 of our tour – a day in which we also visited Vergelegen in Somerset West, before dropping in on Henk Scholtz in Franschhoek.  Now we are setting out to explore the spectacular gardens at Babylonstoren.

01-Sign-Babylonstoren2

But first, a little background.  Like many large farms in the Western Cape, Babylonstoren has a very old pedigree.  Situated between Franschhoek and Paarl in the Drakenstein Valley about 37 miles (60 km) from present-day Cape Town, it was part of the original land grants to Dutch settlers and established in 1692 by Pieter van der Byl, a former soldier with the Stellenbosch Dragoons.  A koppie (small hill) on the land reminded him of the biblical tower of Babel, thus was born the farm’s name. (The full history of the farm and its various owners can be found online)

Now fast forward more than three centuries to 2007 when media power couple Karen Roos (former editor of Elle Decoration) and her husband Koos Bekker (CEO of the large media group Naspers) found Babylonstoren while looking for a weekend retreat to remind them of the farms on which both had grown up.  They bought the 590-acre property and within a few years, set about restoring the 1777 Cape Dutch manor house and the outbuildings in the original werf (farmyard) to create a 14-room boutique ‘farm hotel’ and restaurant. Both love gardening and had been inspired during a French holiday by the work of designer Patrice Taravella at the former monastery La Prieuré d’Orsan.  They hired him to create the spectacular 8-acre (3.5 hectare) potager we see at the heart of Babylonstoren today.  Taravella’s garden plan, which can be explored in detail online, laid out a stunningly ambitious blueprint for a host of fruit and nut trees, berries, herbs and vegetables that echoes the original plan of the British East India Company Garden in present-day Cape Town (below)….

02-VOC-Dutch East India Company Garden Plan

…..but in an ecological way that would integrate best organic practices with medieval-tapestry-inspired, walled gardens to produce a bounty of beautiful edibles for use in the farm’s shop and restaurant.. And in keeping with the estate’s name, it was envisaged as a modern-day nod to the mythical ‘hanging gardens of Babylon’. This is Patrice Taravella’s plan for Babylonstoren.

03-Gardens-of-Babylonstoren

We begin our tour with a stop in Babylonstoren’s shop, where preserves and marmalades and fruit cordials and honeys like the ones below are just a few of the products made from the garden’s bounty.

07-Shop items-Babylonstoren

Lemons come from the Citrus Block in the garden, which also includes several varieties of oranges, grapefruits, limes and mandarins.

05-Lemons-Babylonstoren

There are also lovely gift items, all arranged with the good taste and restraint you might expect from an owner who oversaw scores of home décor photo shoots in her career.

04-Books & Beakers-Shop at Babylonstoren

We head out past the restaurant, appropriately named Babel, whose menu features the 300 different fruits, vegetables and herbs (not to mention wines) produced on the farm.

06-Babel Restaurant-Babylonstoren

Nearby is the Babel labyrinth – and if I were a bird flying overhead, I would see that the labyrinth “spells” the word Babel in the drifts of Spanish and French lavender and other fragrant herbs.

08-Lavender-Babylonstoren

These are the raised lily pools. Not only do they boast a stunning backdrop of Simonsberg (background, left) and other nearby mountains, they also feature….

09-Lily pool-Babylonstoren …..beautiful water lilies (Nymphaea) in just the right peach hue to match the pool. Later, there will be lotuses.

10-Water-lily

And, perhaps more importantly, here are the flowers of Cape pondweed (Aponogeton distachyos) or “waterblommetjies” whose rhizomes are cooked up in a traditional South African stew called Waterblommetjiebredie.

11-Aponogeton-distachyos-water

Let’s follow the sign into the garden.

12-Olive-Walk

Yes, there are olive trees – a beautiful allée of them along here, featuring Mission, Delicata and Frantoio varieties (more varieties are grown on the acreage of Babylonstoren’s farm).  The olives are cold-pressed to make olive oil used in the shop and restaurant.

13-Olive Walk-Babylonstoren

There are two vegetable gardens, one with a carefree profusion of edible cabbages, root crops, fruits and flowers….

14-Vegetables-Babylonstoren

….overseen by a pair of clay pot gardeners…

15-Clay-pot gardeners-Babylonstoren

…and a wandering rooster.  Ducks and chickens with a taste for snails wander the gardens too.

16-Rooster-Babylonstoren

These ‘Portugal’ quince trees (Cydonia oblonga) are kept low and rigorously pruned to provide a few large fruit each.  When ripe, they might be honey-grilled to serve with grilled meat at Babel or made into dulce de membrillo, a quince jelly that can be cut into pieces.

23-Portugal Quince-Babylonstoren

The second vegetable garden is more formal, with raised beds and a central fountain suggestive of a medieval monastery garden.

17-Raised vegetable beds-Babylonstoren

The wicker work and trellises here are wonderful.

18-Pansies & Lovage-Babylonstoren

Artichokes are planted on the edge of the vegetable garden.

19-Artichokes-Babylonstoren

There simply isn’t enough time to explore all these small, enclosed gardens thoroughly, but I make a mad dash along the main axis path, stopping every few minutes to duck down one of the bisecting paths to stick my nose inside and see what’s going on there.  Look at these gorgeous, antique ‘Albertine’ roses.
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36-Rosa 'Albertine'-Babylonstoren

I love all the espaliered fruit with the poppies planted beneath. The fan-trained trees form the leafy walls to some of the enclosures, while…..

22-Stone Fruit Espalier-Babylonstoren

….encouraging the growth of myriad stone fruit, like these ‘Sunlite’ nectarines.

24-Nectarines-Babylonstoren

This is part of the gravity-fed irrigation system, which distributes water throughout the gardens from a natural stream on the property.

20-Gravity-fed water channel-Babylonstoren

I look into one enclosure and find a giant tortoise nonchalantly munching her way through a lush carpet of bacopa (Sutera cordata).  She and her babies find a welcome in the garden.

34-Tortoise-Babylonstoren

My feet make a crunching noise and I gaze down to see that I’m walking on a peach-pit path. That does take recycling to a new level!

25-Peach-pit-path-Babylonstore

I bump my head climbing through the low frame of the door into an enclosure called Almonds-Bees (clearly a good deterrent for anyone who might try to wander in here without knowing who the rightful occupants are).  Being mid-October or mid-spring in South Africa, the almonds were pollinated long ago and the fruit is developing, though still fuzzy.

32-Almonds

I love the hives here, and the bees are finding lots of forage…..

31-Beehives-Babylonstoren

…throughout the gardens, like these cornflower (Centaurea cyanus) flowers, left, and French lavender (Lavandula x intermedia), right.

33-Cape honey bees-Apis mellifera capensis

Bees can also find a haven out in the gardens of Babylonstoren, in their very own landscaped bee hotel, designed by Etienne Hanekom.

32-Bee hotel-Babylonstoren-Etienne Hanekom

There is also a wild bee haven with appropriate nesting media for many species.

30-Bee Nesting Habitat-Babylonstoren

The bee nests are located beside the Subtropical Fruit garden, which includes mango (Mangifera indica), left, and papaya (Carica papaya), right…..

28-Tropical-fruit-Babylonstore

…. and pineapple guava (Feijoa sellowiana).

29-Pineapple Kiwi-Babylonstoren

Here are strawberries in a protective enclosure to keep out hungry birds.

21-Strawberries

And would you have guessed that the vine baskets below are used to protect the rhubarb growing inside them from the sun?   When the rosy stems mature, they might be cut and used in one of Babel’s signature dishes, like roast chicken with rhubarb butter and asparagus.

26-Rhubarb baskets & rose arbours

Red currants (Ribes rubrum) are just one of the crops in the Berry Garden, which also includes blueberries, blackberries, raspberries, gooseberries and Cape gooseberries.

26-Red-currants-Babylonstoren

Prickly-pears (Opuntia ficus-indica) have long been an edibles crop in South Africa, and six varieties of this cacti are grown in the Prickly-Pear Maze, with more on the farm.

35-Prickly pears-Babylonstoren

Thirteen varieties of fig (Ficus carica) are cultivated on trellises and in avenues in the Mulberry Meditation Garden.

27-Figs-on-Trellis-Babylons

Yum….

27-Fig-Babylonstoren

Finally, sadly, it’s time to head back to Cape Town. As we drive out towards the highway, the vineyards stretch out near the outbuildings (now hotel suites) of the farm’s old werf.

37-Grapevines-Babylonstoren

I do wish we’d had a chance to sip a glass of one of the estate’s aptly-named wines, such as its signature red blend Nebukadnesar, named in honour of the king of that mythical desert garden whose spirit is invoked so richly and tastefully in these remarkable gardens at Babylonstoren. Perhaps next time……

Touring Historic Vergelegen

It’s the 11th day of our South African garden tour and we head out from Cape Town to a historic wine estate that is located not in the traditional South African wine regions of Stellenbosch or Franschhoek, but in the valley below the Hottentots Holland mountains just 6 kilometres from the shores of False Bay. Yes, we’re going to visit Vergelegen.

Vergelegen-Sign

If you try to say what I’ve just written – and you’re not Dutch or Afrikaans – I guarantee, you’ll mangle it a little, for the soft g is a “fricative” in linguistics and you should say it (according to Wiki), by making a sound as if you were gargling.  So, with that in mind, try gargling “Vair-hech-lech-en” – which is Dutch for “remotely situated”. Indeed this lovely estate would have been a 3-day ox-wagon journey from the Cape Colony when it was founded in 1700 by Willem Adriaan van der Stel, who succeeded his father Simon van der Stel as second governor of the Cape. In doing so, he claimed a 30,000 hectare (74,000 acre) allotment and spent the next six years planting half-a-million grape vines (blue and white muscadels, “steendruif” or chenin blanc, and frontignan), camphor and English oak trees, fruit orchards and orange groves, while developing cattle and sheep pasturage and reservoirs and irrigation canals.  His interest in horticulture saw him publish one of the first gardening almanacs in South Africa, and he sent native Cape aloes to the Hortus Botanicus in Amsterdam.

But Willem van der Stel’s luxurious tastes and autocratic manner saw him recalled from the Cape Colony by the Dutch government in 1707 and made to answer unfair competition charges levelled by the free burghers (independent Colonial farmers) who claimed he had restricted the sale of their produce and curtailed their free rights to fishing while carrying on extensive farming operations at Vergelegen at the expense of the profits (and using the head gardener and slaves) of the Dutch East India Company (VOC or Vereenigde Oost-Indische Compagnie). After van der Stel’s recall, the Dutch overseers of the VOC determined that none of its employees could own land in the Cape Colony, and Vergelegen was divided into four farms. The early garden plan of Vergelegen, below, showing the octagonal walled garden and homestead that still exist on the property was included in the appendices of Contra Deductie, a 320-page document published in Holland in 1712 which details the case against van der Stel.  The drawing is copied in the notes to an 1882 publication titled Chronicles of Cape Commanders: Or, An Abstract of Original Manuscripts in the Archives of the Cape Colony by Canadian-born historian George McCall Theal, who emigrated to South Africa as a young man.

Vergelen-Willem van der Stel garden plan

Amazingly, that Cape Dutch homestead built by Willem van der Stel in 1700 is still here today, though it was ordered demolished (because it had been built with “ostentation and pomp”) when Vergelegen was partitioned into four separate properties in 1709.  Despite part of that order being fulfilled, Vergelegen’s new owner Barend Guildenhuys could not bear to tear the entire house down, removing only the back portion. What is left today (with front gables added on around 1780 and various other additions coming later) is a lovely heritage building that has been part of Vergelegen through numerous owners since its founding. The estate gardens were dilapidated when Vergelegen was purchased in 1917 by mining “randlord” (that’s the South African version of a robber baron) Sir Lionel Philips as a gift to his wife Lady Florence (1863-1940). She worked on the gardens for more than twenty years, turning the walled octagonal garden into a beautiful English garden that has been restored by the current owners, the Anglo American Company, which acquired Vergelegen in 1987. Founded in 1917 by Ernest Oppenheimer, Anglo American now holds an 85% interest in de Beers Diamonds, as well as numerous other large mining interests throughout Africa and the world.

Octagonal Garden-Camphor trees-Vergelegen

But those five massive camphor trees overhanging the homestead cottage in the photo above, and in the one below, were planted around 1700 by Willem van der Stel..They were declared national monuments in 1942.

Camphor tree-Cinnamomum camphora-Vergelegen

Speaking of monumental trees, this English oak (Quercus robur) was also planted around 1700 by Willem van der Stel, and has survived with its hollowed-out trunk to be the oldest oak in South Africa.

English oak-Vergeegen

A closer look at the homestead with its pretty windows and gables.  The traditional thatched roof is fashioned from grasses of the family Restionaceae.

Octagonal Garden-Vergelegen-English Garden

It was Lady Florence Philips who acquired the pair of bronze deer flanking the homestead’s door. They are replicas of the deer found in the ashes of the ancient Roman city of Herculaneum, buried by Vesuvius.

Octagonal Garden-Vergelegen-deer

Before I learn that no photos are permitted in the house, I have…… whoops… taken a few photos in the house. (Sorry, Vergelegen). But if I hadn’t done so, I would not have had a chance to explain to you what occurred in the lovely dining room below on April 29th 1990, a fact of Vergelegen’s history that impressed me more than anything else. For it was here, privately, quietly and under the aegis of Anglo-American, that members of the ANC – men such as Nelson Mandela, Cyril Ramaphosa, Thabo Mbeki, Aziz Pahad and Trevor Manuel (some of whom had just returned from exile in Zambia the previous day) – had their preparatory meeting to negotiate their ascendant party’s terms with President F.W.de Klerk and his government. What a thrilling day that must have been, and what a moment in history for this Cape Dutch house, whose farms, vineyards and pleasure gardens were once worked by slaves in the pay of the Dutch East India Company.

Dining Room-Homestead-Vergelegen

Here’s a lovely arrangement of indigenous flowers in the house.  Of Vergelegen’s 3000 hectares (7413 acres), much is taken up by wilderness, and Anglo American has hired an ecological conservationist to help restore the indigenous fynbos, with the goal of enhancing and preserving 2240 hectares (5535 acres) to be a “pristine example of the Cape’s natural flora and fauna”. In particular, our guide tells us, they are removing the blue gums (Eucalyptus globulus complex) and stone pines (Pinus pinea) to relieve the demands those invasive exotic trees place on Vergelegen’s water table.

Fynbos flora bouquet-VergelegenThis is the rear of the homestead, with its quiet reflection pools.

Reflection Pools-Homestead-Vergelegen

We are given a walking tour of the many new garden areas.  This is the herb garden with its masses of scented lavender and other traditional herbs.

Herb-Garden-Vergelegen

I love the sundial in the midst of all these straight-edged parterres.

Leonitis leonurus-Vergelegen

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East Garden

I always keep my eye open for life in the garden, like this cape honey bee (Apis mellifera capensis) nectaring on the Limonium prezii, and birds too, like this white-bellied sunbird (Cinnyris talatala)sipping from the Leonitis leonurus or “dagga” as it’s known in S. Africa.

Bee on Limonium perezii-Sunbird on Leonitis leonurus

Here is is the new oak arboretum, with fifteen Quercus varieties planted and more to come – all part of a quest to play a part in conservation of oak species suited for the mild South African climate.

Oak Plantation-Vergelegen

We don’t have time to get up into all the vineyards but the grapes aren’t in season yet, since it’s just mid-spring. It’s lovely, however, to see the flowers that will yield the succulent fruit in a few months.

Grape flowers-Vergelegen

Having completed the grand garden tour, here we are appropriately in the wine tasting room, below. Isn’t it beautiful?

Vergelegen-Wine Tasting Room

I must say, the South African wine tasting experience is rather elegant, compared to Canada, but it’s exactly what you’d expect from a vineyard designed carefully by Anglo-American to match the ambiance of the entire estate.

A little background first. In the mid-1880s, phylloxera ravaged the vines of the Cape vineyards, as it had done earlier in France, the result of importation of American vines (the phylloxera aphid is native to North America) by English botanists. It devastated Vergelegen’s vines, which were ultimately removed and the land left fallow. It wasn’t until after 1966, under the ownership of the Barlow family, that grapes were planted again on the estate in a small-scale way.  When Anglo-American acquired Vergelegen, they cleared invasive vegetation and worked to rehabilitate the land before replanting vines. Their new multi-level, sunken hilltop winery was built and opened by Baron Eric de Rothschild of Château Lafite in Bordeaux, and their wines and the vineyard itself have won top honours in international tasting and tourism competitions.  And to add to the vineyard’s cachet, Vergelegen regularly features entertainers like Celine Dion, Josh Groban and Elton John to perform on the estate.  And the wine? It’s delicious.

Wine-Vergelegen

I love these lights in the tasting room. Note the octagonal V logo, a motif borrowed from the octagonal garden dating back to the Willem van der Stel days.

Lamps-Vergelegen

Finally, we sit down to enjoy a lovely lunch at Stables Restaurant.  With its beautiful decor, it’s fun to gaze around while waiting for the food to arrive…..

Vergelegen-Stables Restaurant

….especially since the walls are graced with beautiful textile art by indigenous artists depicting some of the unique plants of the Cape, like this…..

Art at Vergelegen1

… and this….

Art at Vergelegen2

…and this.

Art at Vergelegen3

And on that charming floral note, it’s time to head back to the bus and settle in for the short trip to Franschhoek and a very quirky and artful private garden whose owner is opening his gate especially for us. See you there!

The Harold Porter National Botanical Gardens

Today, the 10th day of our South Africa garden tour, we’re heading out of Cape Town with our ultimate destination the town of Hermanus for whale-watching.  Our route will take us around Table Mountain out of the city, then over the Cape Flats and ultimately, on R44 or Clarence Drive, along the seashore of False Bay (so-called because it tricked a lot of mariners who thought they had already rounded the Cape of Good Hope into Table Bay).  False Bay has some smaller bays, including Gordon’s Bay, which gives its name to a specific, endangered plant, the Gordon’s Bay pincushion (Leucadendron bolusii).   The road will cut across the point under the Kogelberg Nature Reserve and we will stop in Betty’s Bay at the Harold Porter National Botanical Gardens (red arrow on the map).

Cape Town to Hermanus

I point my camera through the window of the moving bus to capture some of the magnificent coastal scenery on the way. This is Kogel Bay, approaching the Kogelberg Nature Reserve, where the wind often blows very hard, making it a favourite spot for surfing.  And sadly, though it’s normally considered a low-risk area for sharks, a young body-boarder was killed here by a great white shark in 2012.

Kogel Bay

Down the beach, a tidal pool has been partly enclosed for safe swimming.

Kogel Bay-Tidal Pool

Visitors can camp here and bring food to “braii” (barbecue).

Kogel Bay Braai spot

Though the rocks are a favourite place from which to fish, many anglers have also been swept into the sea near here, and their memorial crosses dot the shore.

Kogel Bay-Fisherman's Memorial

A little more than an hour out of Cape Town, we arrive at the Harold Porter Botanical Gardens. This stop is a late addition to our itinerary and most of us on the tour could not be happier. We’ve seen a lot of beautiful private gardens in our first 9 days, but the botanical enthusiasts are itching to see the unique fynbos flora!  And here (sadly in a bit too much sunshine for a good photo) are some of the plants we’ll see in bloom at Harold Porter, including yellow Leucospermum conocarpodendron, orange Leucospermum cordifolium and pink watsonia.

What's in Bloom- Harold Porter BG

Less than a year before our visit, in November 2013, the garden was inundated with mud and water from heavy rains that caused a landslide from the mountains behind.  Photos appear here behind some of the other plants in bloom.

Flood story-Harold Porter Botanical Garden

There’s a lovely container of indigenous flowers in the garden entrance room.

Fynbos flower bouquet

The garden sits between the sea at Betty’s Bay (that is the gorgeous blue sceptre, Aristea capitata at the right) ….

Harold Porter Botanical Gardens

…..and the Kogelberg Mountain Range, whose slopes are spangled with the unique fynbos species of the Cape Floristic Province.  Here’s a little video on the Kogelberg Nature Reserve.

Conscious of the time, I rush madly from bed to bed, moving from the bottom near the visitor centre up to the bridge that leads to the fynbos trail.

Garden Bed-Harold Porter Botanical Garden

I zero in on a sprawling plant, below, from the bed above. It’s Felicia fruticosa, shrub aster or bush felicia.  It reminds me a little of our autumn-flowering North American asters.

Felicia fruticosa

Here’s the familiar fan aloe, now renamed Kumara plicatilis, with a great backdrop of the mountains.

Fan aloe-Kumara plicatilis

And lots of little flowers I’m not familiar with, like these tiny “wild violets” Monopsis unidentata…..

Monopsis unidentata
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….. and this shrubby groundcover called doll’s rose or hermannia (Hermannia pinnata)….

Hermannia-pinnata-Doll's rose

And the amazing little strawflower-like plant called Cape snow, Syncarpha vestita.

Syncarpha vestita-Cape snow

We’ll see a lot of this little wild scabious (Scabiosa incisa) in the gardens around Cape Town – and also the pretty Acraea species butterfly nectaring on it.

Scabiosa incisa & Acraea butterfly

And here’s sweet little Pelargonium citronellum, which we know in North America for its derivative essential oil citronella, commonly used as a natural mosquito repellant.

Pelargonium citronellum

I love botanical gardens that use their plants and the environment in which they grow to offer educational insights that go beyond simple identification. This little display explains how the tannins in the tough fynbos plants make their way into the groundwater, turning it brown.

Tannins in water-Harold Porter BG

Here is the inflorescence of Brunia albiflora, called knopbossie or “knob-flower” in Afrikaans because of the shape of the flowers.  Like many fynbos species it is nominally serotinous, meaning the seeds are disseminated following a fire (though it can also seed without fire). According to plantzafrica, it is endemic to this part of the Western Cape, from the Hottentots Holland Mountains to Hermanus.

Brunia albiflora

Protea nitida or wagon-tree (waboom in Afrikaans) has distinctive blue-green leaves and fluffy white flowers.  It’s one of the few proteas that can become a small tree, in time reaching 15-30 feet (5-10 metres).

Protea nitida

Here’s the beautiful and complex flower of the tree pincushion (Leucospermum conocarpodendron), the largest of the pincushion proteas.

Leucospermum conocarpodendron

And two of the most commonly-seen, but beautiful, fynbos species, blue sceptre (Aristea capitata) and red pincushion protea (Leucospermum cordifolium). Don’t they look amazing together?

Leucospermum cordifolium & Aristea capitata-Harold Porter BG

A wetland with a little bridge near the top of the garden contains a profusion of striking, yellow-flowered Wachendorfia thyrsiflora. Its common name is bloodwort or bloodroot for its red roots.

Wachendorfia thyrsiflora-Harold Porter BG

I wish we had at least another half-day in this charming garden, then we could cross this bridge and hike up into the fynbos.

Bridge to Fynbos trail-Harold Porter BG

…..where leopards are said to roam from time to time……

Leopard sign-Fynbos-Harold Porter BG

……but where we would be much more likely to run into the wild Leucospermum cordifolium spangling the fynbos than leopards.  Isn’t this fabulous?

Fynbos-Leucospermum cordifolium

However, it’s time to head back to the bus for the short hop down the highway to Hermanus to look for whales. But this little botanical garden has stolen my heart.

The Gardens of Cellars-Hohenort

After a delightful morning visit to Stellenberg in Cape Town, we arrive at one of the finest hotels in the city, indeed in all of South Africa. Not just luxe lodging, of course, for that wouldn’t be enough to bring us here on our garden tour, but a spectacular garden as well.   I’ve visited a lot of hotels that have skillfully designed landscapes, but I can count on one hand the number that feature a garden that seems like a generous gesture by the owners that is well beyond the normal definition of “lovely grounds”.  That defines the garden at The Cellars-Hohenort Hotel in Constantia Valley on the slopes of Table Mountain, and the generosity of spirit and creativity of the hotel’s late owner Liz McGrath.

Cellars-Hohenort

We begin with a short talk at the top of the property by Hohenort’s garden manager, Neil McKrill, who will give us the grand tour today.

Neil-McKrill-Cellars-Hoheno

I can’t help but gaze longingly at a nearby rose tripod bearing the most luscious peach rose, and I laugh when I hear the name, ‘Crépuscule’, which has a faintly medicinal sound. But I understand completely after looking up the translation, for it means the colour of the sky at twilight or dusk.  It’s a Noisette Tea climber, bred in 1904 by Francis Dubreuil – and best in warm climates.

Rosa 'Crépuscule'

Roses are used extensively here at Hohenort, including masses of white ‘Iceberg’ (which must be by far the most popular rose in South Africa), its blossoms echoing nicely the whitewashed Cape architecture.

Rosa-'Iceberg'

And as at Stellenberg, white gardens form a theme here, too, like these white borders flanking a reflecting pool. That cascading cerise bougainvillea adds a nice contrast.

White-Garden

Calla lily (Zantedeschia aethiopica), native to South Africa, is no less sumptuous for being common and is set off nicely by the frothy white campion (Lychnis coronaria ‘Alba’) and white columbines.

Zantedeschia & Lychnis

Nearby is a bed of bright pincushions (Leucospermum cordifolium) – still a novelty for us since we haven’t yet seen any serious collections of native plants (but that will come later!)

Leucospermum cordifolium

The formal rose garden is gorgeous, and seems to be at peak bloom.

Rose Garden-Cellars Hohenort

We will see these clearwing butterflies (Acraea sp.) all over Cape Town gardens.

Acraea butterfly on rose

Neil explains that the vineyard has these red and white roses planted at the end of the rows of red and white wine grapes respectively. The idea is that a fungus like mildew will affect the rose leaves first, giving the vintner an early warning to treat the grape leaves for the same problems.

Roses & Grapevines-Cellar Hohenort

A lovely combination of Mexican fleabane (Erigeron karvinskianus) and Asian chain fern (Woodwardia orientalis) graces the base of a stone wall.

Woodwardia orientalis & Erigeron karvinskianus
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And how pretty is this arch bedecked with lavender trumpet vine (Bignonia callistegioides).

Clytostoma callistegioides-Lavender Trumpet Vine-Cellars Hohenort

 

We head down into Hohenort’s shady woodland, past the water garden with moisture-loving calla lilies and yellow flag iris (Iris pseudacorus).

Woodland-Cellars Hohenort

As we walk the path, Neil points up to the amazing canopy of camphor trees (Cinnamomum camphora).  They are between 220 and 240 years old – the second oldest camphors in South Africa. I think what a lovely, cool retreat this would be for hotel guests on hot summer days.

Camphor tree-Cinnamomum camphora

Passing through a little orchard, Neil asks whether we know this trick: crush a citrus leaf with your fingers, then smell it. You should be able to tell by the essesntial oils released whether it’s an orange or lemon. (This was definitely zesty lemon.)

Lemon leaf crushing

Heading back to the hotel, we pass this unique water feature.

Arched water feature-Cellars Hohenort

Our garden tour with Neil ends at the main building beside this lovely little formal parterre.

Parterre-Cellars Hohenort

Our tour leader Donna Dawson has arranged an elegant lunch at Cellars-Hohenort.  What a serene and inviting lobby sitting room.

Cellars-Hohenort-Interior

Our lunch, appropriately, will be in The Greenhouse Restaurant with its cool, ferny decor.

The Greenhouse-Cellars-Hohenort

Neil McKrill’s wife does the floral arrangements for the hotel. I like the modern feel of these ones.

The-Greenhouse-Restaurant-C

And what could be more appealing after a long morning touring gardens than a glass of South African white wine and a bowl of chilled mint-pea soup to start?  Time to relax and enjoy the setting, for we’re not quite finished our day of touring yet……

Pea-and-mint soup-The Greenhouse-Cellars Hohenort